Tong Lau: A Glimpse into Hong Kong's Past, Present, and Future

The tong lau and modern architecture in the Lee Gardens Area create a harmonious blend of old and new.

As an international financial centre, Hong Kong boasts an abundance of towering skyscrapers, yet it also retains numerous historic buildings that preserve the city's former character. The Lee Gardens Area serves as a microcosm of Hong Kong, where soaring commercial edifices and venerable tong lau — which literally translates to Chinese tenement buildings— intertwine, collectively shaping a community that seamlessly blends the old and new. However, the unique juxtaposition of old and new in the Lee Gardens Area is not merely a result of the coexistence of tong lau and modern architecture; more importantly, the tong lau acts as a medium, tightly connecting the stories and sentiments of the past with the present.

Six years back, Leo Chan founded the “Hong Kong Heritage” website and social media platforms to share his photographs of historic buildings across Hong Kong, including colonial-style historic buildings, century-old temples, and pre-war tong lau. Since his secondary school days, he has been passionate about photography and later studied Culture and Heritage Management at university, which provided him with more opportunities to engage with art, culture, and heritage conservation, gradually sparking a keen interest in historic buildings. As a result, he started to actively document the presence of these architectural and historical gems. Throughout this journey, he discovered that these buildings in his photographs possessed distinctive features, prompting him to delve deeper into researching these historic structures.

Leo Chan launches the "Hong Kong Heritage" website to showcase photographs of historic buildings in Hong Kong.

"Historic buildings themselves represent the traces of the previous generation or several generations who lived in Hong Kong, witnessing the development trajectory of the city, especially the tong lau," Leo explains. He elaborates that tong lau can be divided into four generations. Regulations are constantly evolving. As Hong Kong's era changes, the architectural forms of tong lau also transform. Each generation of tong lau uniquely showcases the trajectory of Hong Kong's socio-economic development and the living environment of its citizens.

Tong lau are emblematic of Hong Kong, reflecting the city’s socio-economic development and residents' living conditions in different periods.

The first generation of tong lau emerged in Hong Kong after it was opened as a trading port. At the time, Hong Kong attracted a large number of Chinese immigrants. To address the housing needs of the soaring population, many two- to three-storey tong lau appeared in areas like Sheung Wan and Tai Ping Shan Street. These buildings were primarily constructed with blue brick walls, wooden flooring, and gable roofs covered with tiles, emphasising practicality over aesthetics. Subsequently, due to the outbreak of the plague, the design of the second generation of tong lau was subject to legal regulations, such as requiring that two rows of tong lau cannot be built "back-to-back" and that indoor spaces must have sufficient space and windows to ensure basic sanitary conditions. In the 1930s, a heightened focus on architectural aesthetics led to more decorative design features in the third generation of tong lau, incorporating elements of modernism, neoclassicism, and Chinese aesthetics into features like the balcony railings and the geometric lines of the window grilles. Therefore, in addition to their practical functions, these tong lau also displayed aesthetic designs on the exterior, with the most famous example being Lui Seng Chun. The fourth generation of tong lau emerged after World War II. Due to Hong Kong's limited post-war economy, these buildings adopted modernist designs that emphasised practicality and functionality. At the same time, despite the rapid population growth after the war, public housing and resettlement areas were still unable to meet the needs of the population of over a million, so many tong lau units were divided into small rooms similar to subdivided flats for subletting.

Initially, Leo thought tong lau were rather dilapidated buildings that were easily overlooked, but later he discovered that among the many buildings in Hong Kong, tong lau are the most representative of the city. Whether from an aesthetic perspective, architectural structure, or material selection, each generation of tong lau possesses its own unique characteristics.

The vibrant Lee Gardens Area, nestled among towering commercial buildings, features distinctive post-war tenement buildings that showcase rich architectural heritage. (Photo provided by the interviewee)

The shutter captures moments of life, permanently freezing beautiful instants in time. Photography become a channel to bring stories of the past into the present, allowing people to relive unforgettable moments through memories as if two time periods are closely connected by the photographs. Leo is precisely establishing this connection with the past through these images. He adds, "To know the original appearance of old buildings, one can only rely on photographs taken by people in the past." In this sense, the architectural features he captures today not only allow for comparison with past photographs to see the changes, but more importantly, these photographs may also be passed on to future generations, continuing the stories behind the historic buildings.

In our daily lives, we rarely pay close attention to the structure of buildings. Through sharing on his website and social media platforms, Leo provides opportunities for everyone to carefully observe the details of buildings, thereby discovering the beauty of old-style architecture and cherishing these disappearing elements of Hong Kong's architectural culture. In old buildings, one can find traditional craftsmanship like staircase windows, terrazzo, and Shanghai plaster, and Leo expresses regret, saying, "Although these crafts can only be seen in old buildings, they are quite distinctive." Taking terrazzo as an example, it was commonly used in buildings from the 1920s to 1930s and in the 1950s and 1960s after the war. Compared to wood or stone, terrazzo is easier to shape and can be used for curved stair railings and columns. Additionally, it is waterproof and easy to clean, often used for floor paving and stair corners. Terrazzo is also relatively inexpensive but can still display an elegant effect, making it popular among the middle class in the past. However, since the late 19th century, people have begun using rebar and concrete to construct buildings, and architects have started utilising new materials and technologies to design entirely new architectural spaces. The complex terrazzo craftsmanship requires manual polishing by skilled workers, resulting in higher labour costs. Architects and engineers preferred to have more control over the outcome, so they are less inclined to use crafts that heavily rely on the experience and skills of workers, and instead, favoured machine or factory-produced building designs. As the market demand for architectural decorations declined, the number of workers skilled in these crafts has also gradually diminished, and these techniques are no longer seen in modern architecture.

Intricate crafts like terrazzo can only be found in old buildings.

In addition to observing the structure of buildings, Leo delves into researching various information about the buildings during his data collection, including the year of construction, landowners, the background of the first and subsequent owners, and the various stories that have occurred within the buildings. He recalls, "At that time, a 500-square-foot unit would house about 40 people, and due to poor ventilation, residents often had disputes over odour issues." He imagines, "40 people crammed into such a small space, even their breathing sounds became annoying." However, it was precisely because of this environment that the tong lau residents of that time could develop very close neighbourly relationships. Through old building photographs, people with shared experiences can evoke profound memories of the past, while also allowing those who have never experienced it to establish a connection with the past. The Lee Gardens Area has preserved many old-style tong lau, and these buildings serve as an old photograph, linking the past to the present.

Leo uses the camera shutter to record tong lau, connecting two time periods of the past and present through photographs; for architect Alan Cheung, tong lau is a space that brings people together.

Architect Alan Cheung adheres to a human-centric philosophy and established One Bite Social.

Placemaking transcends the realm of built environment professionals alone; it is a domain that engages the broader public. The influential urbanist Jane Jacobs has articulated that "Cities have the capability of providing something for everybody, only because, and only when, they are created by everybody." This belief underpins Alan's conviction that integrating architecture and design into communities necessitates a human-centric approach. To foster a meaningful relationship between local spaces and the community, it is essential to involve citizens in the planning process. By encouraging public participation, residents can co-create distinctive living environments and communal spaces, thereby imbuing urban areas with deeper significance. Alan articulates this philosophy succinctly: "Architecture, in essence, is about designing spaces for people." For him, architecture serves as a vessel for space, with people being the critical element that brings it to life. However, upon becoming an architect, he noticed that many designs prioritised aesthetics over functionality, prompting him to adopt a human-centric approach that resulted in the establishment of One Bite Design Studio, and subsequently, One Bite Social. This organisation collaborates with various groups, including social workers who possess an in-depth understanding of community issues, enabling Alan to gain insights into the needs of the community, which he incorporates into his architectural designs to better serve local residents. Consequently, he has partnered with volunteers, community members, organisations, and locals to foster stronger connections within the community.

In 2017, Alan launched Project House to repurpose temporarily vacant shops for community use. With the support of landlords who provide these spaces, he transforms them into temporary community hubs focused on everyday life themes such as clothing, food, housing, transportation and sharing, with simple design elements. He partners with community organisations to host events like upcycling services, free haircuts, swap meets, and meals for the homeless, all aimed at utilising local resources to benefit residents and connect unused spaces with the community.

Alan launched Project House to repurpose temporarily vacant shops for community use. (Photo provided by the interviewee)

In 2023, Project House found a new home in the historic pre-war tong lau at No.1 Queen's Road West, previously home to a roast meat and preserved meat business known as Yau Kee Hop. This century-old building has been transformed into a community space called Project House @1QRW. Alan explains, "Our goal is not merely to preserve old buildings but to creatively reuse the spaces within them." While managing this community venue, Alan reinterprets the traditional concept of a shophouse by utilising the front for retail and the rear for workshops and events.

Project House has revitalised the old Yau Kee Hop idle retail space into a community hub, blending preservation with innovative repurposing. (Photo provided by the interviewee)

This community space serves not only as a focal point for the neighbourhood but also imbues new significance by connecting the past and present through various activities that encourage interaction among diverse age groups and interests. Throughout this process, Alan has encountered individuals who frequented the area or lived there in the good old days, deepening his appreciation for the stories embedded within the limited space of the tong lau. One colleague shared a tale of his grandfather selling roasted peanuts outside Yau Kee Hop, reinforcing Alan's belief that "this place, with its century-long history, has witnessed countless experiences."

Alan describes this initiative as akin to creating a community living room where people can come to relax and interact. In running Project House, he not only reconnects with those who have historical ties to Yau Kee Hop but also attracts a diverse crowd from various professions and backgrounds. He recounts meeting a marine engineer, a vinyl record collector, and even experts knowledgeable about tong lau architecture. Alan has organised events to introduce younger generations to the history of Hong Kong, such as inviting street performers to showcase their talents in this historic setting. Interestingly, some elderly patrons visit Project House before dinner to enjoy the performances alongside foreign tourists, domestic helpers, and children, creating a scene that bridges generational gaps and fosters connections.

Alan breathes new life into the century-old Yau Kee Hop, transforming it into a bridge between the past and the present. The skyline of the Lee Gardens Area, with its juxtaposition of high-rises and tong lau, creates a unique urban landscape where old and new cultures intertwine, preserving stories across generations. "The old buildings in Lee Gardens Area play a crucial role in documenting history, keeping the narratives of the past alive." Take for instance, the Tai Ping Koon Restaurant, a longstanding establishment in the area that has hosted numerous Cantonese opera stars and audiences, witnessing the glory days of the 1970s when the Lee Theatre was a hub for Cantonese opera, the vibrant 1980s filled with Japanese department stores, and the present bustling with commercial establishments offering an array of shopping and dining experiences.

Similarly, for Leo, the Lee Gardens Area serves as a conduit, bridging contemporary society with the rich tapestry of historical culture. Despite the thriving urban environment dominated by skyscrapers, one can still discover workshops and experiences that embody a slower pace of life, such as knitting workshops, aromatherapy studios, and tea houses. Leo believes that "the tong lau in the Lee Gardens Area not only blend the old and new but also provide spaces for industries that promote a slower lifestyle to thrive."

The tong lau in the Lee Gardens Area bridge old and new cultures, preserving past narratives while fostering contemporary connections.

Today, the Lee Gardens Area boasts a rich tapestry of development with various industries blooming together, contributing to a community characterised by diversity and inclusivity, encompassing retail, office, and residential spaces—a true melting pot. Amidst towering skyscrapers and tong lau lies a captivating connection between old and new cultures, which bestows a unique allure on the Lee Gardens Area. From a community development perspective, the preservation of the cultural landscape in the Lee Gardens Area enables the historical essence to thrive while revealing limitless future possibilities.